Brittany, Breizh, Bretagne, An Bhriotáin, whatever! Roscoff, Quimper, Brest, Roscoff

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About 50m, maybe 1500 ft. I'd prebooked a B and B here whose name I got from another B and B which was closed. This was done before the holiday. The owner was one vowel from having a controversial name, Madame Le Tard, a jolly Breton lady and the place was fine. We ate down near the port which was about 200 yds away. This is a VERY pretty place and we had a choice of two restaurants. We chose the proper one which was near the Creperie. The food was nouvelle cuisine, i.e. scanty enough, but gorgeous. The owner was a jolly Breton with a shaved beard (they like that kind of thing) who didn't so much walk as glide slowly through the restaurant. We arrived back at Madame Le Tard's again and went to bed early as there was nothing to do. French TV is actually worse than people say. I slept badly but the next morning after a breakfast of croissants, bread and far breton (a kind of egg and prune cake, but not as nice as it doesn't sound) and coffee. On the bikes. Gorgeous day from start to finish. We followed the D28 and D788 to St.Pol de Leon and then Roscoff. This route wasn't too hilly and wasn't too busy either. A lot of the countryside was lovely wooded valleyed (just made that word up, and why not) stuff.

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Aber Wrac'h a famous inlet.

Had cake and jetboil coffee in a village and a late lunch in St.Pol de Leon.
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Made Roscoff in glorious weather, hung around looking at the place, the people, the town , etc., and eventually had quiche , etc., in the only restaurant which was open.

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This British made car, not a three wheeled Morgan but a Triking had a Moto Guzzi engine. The French owners told us all about it and as I was hanging around there I spent about an hour explaining all about it to people who were gawking at it. Good practice for my French.

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Picking bait I suppose

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I had an interesting conversation with this Frenchman en francais. He decried the closure of cafes, mirroring the loss of pubs in these islands. He said people watch TV instead of talking to the neighbours and they know all about Afghanistan and nothing about what's going on in the next village!

The boat left at 9.15pm and we had another light snack on that and went to bed. This was a different cabin and my bunk creaked. AAAARRRRGGGGGHHHHH. Mick was asleep so I couldn't wake him by rooting in my luggage for the Boots Wax earplugs, the touring cyclist's best friend. So another bad night.
Next morning a 17 m cycle home in light rain.

Thus ended a not bad tour at all. Plus points. GPS routes were great. Jetboil (my latest stove, I have about 10) was really good. Bike gave no trouble except for one puncture on the last morning. Weather on last 2.5 days was idyllic. Food was good.
Minus points. I didn't sleep well throughout, so I was a bit rashered when I came home.

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10 comments on “Brittany, Breizh, Bretagne, An Bhriotáin, whatever! Roscoff, Quimper, Brest, Roscoff”

  1. Hilary wrote:

    Wonderful pics as always Garry.
    I've got unfinished business with that part of Brittany – that was the trip that was abandoned when Dennis' moped packed up. Moral – don't go cycle touring with someone on a moped!

    Jetboil (my latest stove, I have about 10) was really good.

    LOL Its my latest of about 10 too! Glad to hear it performed well, I've hardly used mine, I must dig it out altho a shiny blue bike with matching shiny blue stove could be a bit much even for me! 🙂

  2. Garry wrote:

    Mine is royal blue as well. My friend Mike Harris, who is set in his ways thinks that a bike should be red or black, not blue. Several of us have at least one blue bike and we poke endless fun at him over it. The blue stove would be the stove de grace!

  3. Mary wrote:

    What a fabulous tour Garry. I would LOVE to tour Brittany/France, every account of it, I have read/heard about has been positive.

    As usual your pictures taken along your ride are calendar quality! Love the green three wheeler car or is it a trike? I can fully empathise with your poor sleeping, I can never sleep when I am away from home either, the slightest sound wakens me.

  4. Garry Lee wrote:

    It's a three wheeler car. Brittany is not all beautful but in a way that's an advantage as you don't get scenery fatigue as you do in places that are all beautiful. The coast east of Roscoff as far as Paimpol is sensational. It has this marvellous pink granite. The first time you see it it'll amaze you, but I've seen it about 7 times. If you do a bit of research there are some lovely little towns inland, like Moncontour which we visited on our first ever Breton tour. St.Malo is fabulous, as are Dinan and Dinard, but I've not visited the latter two. Another fab place is the Phare du Paon on the Ile de Brehat. A Frenchman told me about it. I've seen it three times. Another lovely tour to do is a tour of the Parish Closes, of which Guimiliau and Lampaul-Guimiliau are the most famous, but there are loads of them. These are churches with churchyards and ossuaries.

  5. Kern wrote:

    Two great bottles of Alsatian Resiling, two good bottles of Cotes du Rhones, Mary's fruitcake and who knows what other treats in between – it has all the makings of a great tour. The weather at the start looks decidely Irish, i.e. "soft" :).

    How are the hills in Brittany? We're fishing around for a tour location for next year. I should get a map.

  6. Garry Lee wrote:

    It's very hilly but the hills aren't that steep. Very much rolling. Was in my lowest gear just once on a switchback. But you can see that the hills mounted up most days. It's not as pretty as Ireland or Scotland generally but has some fab places. There are also some dull boring bits.

  7. Mary wrote:

    "There are also some dull boring bits."

    All made the better for all that fab French food and wine though....

    I always thought Brittany was a bit like Norfolk and Suffolk in the UK as a hillyness comparison, it is a bit hillier then?

  8. Garry Lee wrote:

    Yes, it's pretty hilly. Not as hilly as the Peak District or the Yorkshire Dales but distinctly lacking in flat. You would need a triple there.

  9. Chris wrote:

    Lovely pictures as always, Garry. How incongruous is that Pirates of the Caribbean pin ball machine?

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