Cycling West Yorkshire

A weekend cycle tour in the Yorkshire Dales

In the June 30th, 1937 edition of 'The Cyclist' magazine L.G. Fothergill described this Yorkshire Dales week end route as "Embracing Some of Yorkshire's Finest Scenery" and reckoned 90 miles as its length. I think it's nearer to 100 miles. I've drawn it up in Google Earth and created a set of five GPS tracks that make up the route, and that's what they add up to, near enough. I want to cycle the 1937 route in 2011, 74 years later, as it looks a wonderful ride. Whether it will be a century ride or a long weekend's cycling and sightseeing adventure remains to be seen. Perhaps both.

West Yorshire cycling weekend

Google Earth's Yellow Brick Road: "Yours To Enjoy To Your Heart's Content"

From 'The Cyclist'

"Apart from the official divisions of the three Ridings, the wide diversity of Yorkshire's characteristics form in themselves two great, but quite distinctive territories—The Dales and The Wolds—each in its own way a veritable paradise for cyclists.

"Unfortunately the time at our disposal makes it inevitable that one or other gives way on this occasion and, therefore, I suggest we make our way into the Dales, leaving until another time that pleasant region to the east of the Vale of Mowbray, where such names as Coxwold, Helmsley, Pickering, or the coastal villages of Staithes, Runswick and Robin Hood's Bay, live for ever in the memory of all who visit them.

Skipton Castle "Wild moorland, wind-swept fells; swirling rivers, turbulent streams; these comprise the treasure of the Dales country, and if the discovery should entail shouldering the bicycle at times, it is worth it. Rest assured, even the most venturesome motorist will seldom be found on these roads; it is cyclist's country, yours to enjoy to your heart's content.

"Starting at Skipton, the ancient capital of Craven, it is natural that we should first visit the castle. Built in Norman times, the castle of Skipton came into the hands of the Cliffords in the early fourteenth century. They held it for five hundred years. During this time a wealth of Yorkshire history centred around Skipton and a great deal of Yorkshire blood was spilled when the castle was held for Charles Stuart in a three-years siege whilst all others in the county fell.

"Near by, at the head of the market place, is the parish church, within the chancel of which generations of these Clifford Lords were laid to rest.

Delightful Scenery

"Four miles along the Settle road is Gargrave, where, turning right by Eshton Hall, we follow quiet roads through perhaps the most delightful part of Airedale; through Airton and Kirkby Malham, with its charming old church, to Malham itself, an exquisite gem in an impressive setting of sweeping moors and massive limestone cliffs.

Goredale Scar"Leave the cycle awhile at Malham. A short walk along the Kilnsey road brings us to a farm, at a point where the road crosses a stream, and passing through the farm-yard we follow a path through the fields until suddenly a sharp bend reveals Goredale Scar.

"Amongst the wonders of this great shire, Goredale is considered by many to be the greatest of them all. Perhaps it is the spectacular manner of its presentation. One moment we are walking across open fields, the next finds us engulfed in a great chasm of limestone. Huge cliffs, narrowing to the top, tower above, shutting out the sun, and the eerie silence is broken only by the sharp splash of the stream as it hurls through a crevice high in the rocks and seeks the floor in a series of mad leaps.

"Over one hundred years ago Wordsworth wrote :—

    Goredale chasm, terrific as the lair
    Where the young lions crouch.

"And as Goredale does not change, we could not hope to better that description.

"Returning through the fields we cross the road and, by way of a small wicket gate, visit Jannet's Foss. Here a graceful fall leads the stream into a quiet glade where, between the banks of heavy green, it lingers awhile to rest after the wild rush through the Scar. A remarkable contrast to the scene of a few minutes ago.

A Wall of Rock

"Awheel again, we take the road by the river towards the cove and before long stand amazed beneath that great barrier of rock. Three hundred and fifty feet high, the white wall stretches across the valley and from its base leaps the Aire full of youthful enthusiasm as it glimpses the light of day.

"The old road climbs on towards the Tarn and, high in the hills, we cross the lonely woods towards Arncliffe, with the lake, silent and aloof, lying on the right before a background of dark trees.

Buttertubs Pass "From Arncliffe, we follow the little River Skirfare up Littondale to Halton Gill, where we take to the moors again. Although on this occasion the rough track makes riding impossible in some places, the spells of walking provide excellent opportunities for studying the glorious landscape in which the peaks of Ingleborough and Penyghent predominate.

"Joining Langstrothdale at Raisgill, a delightful road by the Wharfe passes through Oughtershaw, climbs Oughtershaw Side, and eventually brings us to Hawes. Across the river from here is Hardrow and the incomparable Hardrow Force.

"Crossing Abbotside by way of Buttertubs Pass we reach Muker, and a short way beyond is Keld. If you are still prepared to walk a mile or so in search of sheer grandeur, follow me along a rough path which begins by the falls and skirts the foot of Kisdon, winding with the Swale through a thickly wooded gorge. Leaping and turning, the hurrying river washes the feet of the great scree walls; white walls whose heads reach into space a hundred or more feet above us. A magnificent sight, and ample repayment for making the detour.

A Trio of Falls

"We reach the road again just below Muker and continue as far as Gunnerside, where the river is crossed to the Muker Pass, a wild road over the fells to Askrigg and Aysgarth. To the left of the road are the trio of falls for which Aysgarth is justly famous.

Wharfedale"One of the prettiest of Yorkshire villages must surely be West Burton. Hidden away in the very heart of Bishopdale the houses cluster around a delightful green, whilst behind the village Walden Beck concludes its adventurous journey from the hills with a dramatic leap into a deep, dark pool from which it emerges chastened and slips quietly away to seek the Ure. This village is but half a mile from the main road and easily visited on our way to Buckden and the vale of the Wharfe.

"Down the dale from Buckden we follow the river through Kettlewell; beneath the shadow of Kilnsey Crag; through Linton to Burnsall. Here we cross to the quieter and far more interesting road on the left bank of the river going via Appletrewick before returning to the main road at Barden Tower, the one-time hunting lodge of the tenth Lord Clifford.

"Three miles further on lie the ruins of the twelfth-century abbey of Bolton. With the exception of the nave, which is roofed in and used as a church at the present time, little remains of the old magnificence; but these are very beautiful ruins, deserving far greater respect than is shown by the vandals whose names and initials are emblazoned in such profusion.

"At Bolton Bridge we turn right and head for Skipton, our starting point, bringing to an end a tour which, in about 90 miles, has embraced some of the finest country in Yorkshire."

L.G. Fothergill

Bolton Abbey Thanks to fellow blogger Hilary for posting the article in 1930s Cyclists and for agreeing to it being typed out here. The inset photos are not mine, nor did L.G. Fothergill publish any with his fine description of the route.

The West Yorkshire week end tour touches a lot of dales: Airedale, Goredale, Littondale, Swaledale, Wensleydale, Bishopdale, Deepdale, and Wharfedale. The first half looks tough, including Fleet Moss and Buttertubs Pass, and a section where the bicycle has to be carried over a moor. The only change I've consciously indicated from the original tour is the turn west at Bolton Abbey instead of a little further on at Bolton Bridge. This avoids Long Causeway back into Skipton, obviously a much busier road today than in 1937. Green Lane just to the north is quieter.

Download the route for GPS: GPS cycle routes »

Incidentally, CycleSeven is one year old today.

11 comments on “Cycling West Yorkshire”

  1. Hilary wrote:

    A great blending of historic and modern, the inset photos work really well. Its a shame its not still true that "even the most venturesome motorist will seldom be found on these roads"!

    I reckon it would be hard going for a day ride but would make a lovely two day jaunt. I was assistant warden at Malham Youth Hostel for a couple of years 1985-6. I'm not sure if it was there in 1936, I've a vague idea it was post war but I could be wrong.

    Happy Birthday CycleSeven! 😀

  2. Chris wrote:

    Hilary wrote: Its a shame its not still true that 'even the most venturesome motorist will seldom be found on these roads;'!

    Patrick and I rode the B6160 from Threshfield to Kettlewell last month. It was surprisingly quiet, but I understand it can get rather busy in the summer. (We only cycled that road to avoid going out and back on the same route; we came back along the much quieter road that runs parallel and passes through Conistone.) I'm not sure I would fancy riding the full length of the B6160 as far as West Burton. But it wouldn't take a lot to persuade me.

    There are a heck of a lot of dales to cycle for a one day ride – although it would be fun trying with an early start. Maybe a weekend would more sensible, but does anyone fancy the one day option? I reckon that lot adds up to 99 miles. So a few laps of the Skipton Travelodge car park, eh, Patrick? 😉

    Happy birthday, gang.

  3. Patrick wrote:

    I fancy the one day option next summer or late spring. One or two of my sons are up for it too, probably. But I would also like to do it another time with Mrs Taylor, taking three days with plenty of stopping to look at waterfalls and chasms and enjoy afternoon teas.

    The 1937 route goes clockwise, so it would be the B6160 from West Burton, then at Kettlewell it can be switched to that quieter road to Grassington and join up again. At Burnsall Bridge the route goes off down a lane to Barden Tower where it joins the B6160 again to Bolton Abbey.

    The GPS tracks I plotted are a series of straight lines. They follow the roads very closely but possibly reduce the distance a small amount, compared to if they were curves. That's why I reckoned 100 miles. My Rivington 100 actual track cycled was a couple of miles longer than the track I followed and I think that is partly because of the extra distance of going off-course looking round villages and a couple of wrong turns. I'm quite happy to circle the Travelodge car park though!

  4. Kern wrote:

    Happy birthday indeed, with kudos to Patrick for making it all hang together. It would make an interesting story to hear how it all happened, or rather was made to happen. I stumbled onto CycleSeven when planning for this year's trip to Ireland (which I will post shortly), and it has become the first page I read every day. I think it's the "slow burn" that attracts, and the different individual perspectives.

    Good work combining Google Earth, GPS, and a sunny article from the depths of the Great Depression. There's a pun in here on economic cycles that's just bursting to get out.

  5. Patrick wrote:

    Thanks Kern. I agree with you on slow burn. "Long life = low energy + loose fit" is the phrase I like. Running a long life website as a sole contributor is a lonely furrow. Unless it's a business, most individuals eventually give up. A while back I came across a website called worldchanging (dot) com with a team of 'correspondents' collaborating on a subject they all share a passion for. So that is the model but our subject is cycling. Our group volunteered either on seeing this website (or my other personal one, which I've stopped updating) or when I mentioned it on the CTC forums.

  6. Mary wrote:

    Fabulous post Patrick and many thanks for all your hard work over the past year, I cant believe another 12 months has passed by! CycleSeven is my favourite bit of cycle gossip, I get a great deal out of it.

    LOVE this route, and thankyou for putting it on here. I am in a flux, as its the time of year I start thinking about the next cycling season. The Dales and Yorkshire is ONE of the best parts of the UK. I am def thinking seriously of making this a route one to try. I could of course cycle to part of it and go from there.

    My GPS does thankfully offer me a map – OS. (SATMAP), but I still cannot get the Garmin to do anything, I never get a squiggle even. I am wondering if its me, or if the unit doesnt work properly. I assume you download routes onto it, and this I have tried, but they never appear where they are supposed to. Very irritating, as the sales person (online) said the unit was OK wiht a Mac. Still there are worse things to worry about in life.

  7. Patrick wrote:

    Hi Mary. If Chris and I cycle this route next year, you are welcome to join us. It begins and ends at Skipton Travelodge where I stayed the night before he and I cycled a loop to Kettlewell a month ago.

    Re: GPS. I assume you can download a .gpx file to your computer? But then you need a way to transfer it to your Garmin, and the way I do that is with MapSource – the software program that comes on a CD with a Garmin GPS and which works fine on Windows. Once I've downloaded a route from the web I open it in MapSource, where I can then see the route on a map. This map is now not on the web but on my PC. Click 'Transfer' at the top of MapSource, then 'Send To Device' and if my Garmin is connected to my computer via USB, the route can then be accessed on the GPS and appears onscreen.

    There is another way, at least on my eTrex Legend HCx. I connect the GPS to my computer via USB cable and go into its Setup Menu then select Interface where USB Mass Storage can be activated. The GPS then appears on my computer as a Removable Disc Drive where I can view what is on it and drag files across. You should be able to do something similar on a Mac. If not, I'd ask Garmin how to move .gpx files to and from your unit from your computer, not a website.

  8. Alan wrote:

    Excellent stuff, and happy birthday, all. Slow burn and a variety of perspectives make it, I reckon.

    I've done little cycling in the dales, but explored the moors somewhat when I lived in Haxby, north of York. It was desolate, cold and wet, 30 years ago, and I hope it hasn't changed. I have vague thoughts of taking the train next year to York and rediscovering some of the wild country.

  9. Mary wrote:

    Think I will take you up on this Patrick if you really don't mind me tagging along. There is a Youth HOstel just 7 miles away from Skipton, that'll make the run 100miles!

    Thanks for the info regarding MapSource. I have one of these, its a tiny weeny micro sort of chip affair. Shows just how rubbish I am at this IT stuff, cos I thought it lived IN the Garmin and then maps appeared! I thought you could just drag and drop straight into the Garmin, its a lot more complicated than first imagined.

    Anyway, I intend to map this route into my SATMAP and use that.

    I can boat to Lancaster, cycle to Earby (Youth Hostel) and meet you in Skipton for the ride the following day. Will keep you in touch about this Patrick. Really some thing to look forward to one weekend. Thank you for this.

  10. Patrick wrote:

    Great! Now that's three of us who fancy the one day option.

    The micro chip thingy you're referring to sounds like a Micro SD card with maps on. That goes in the Garmin. MapSource is on a CD and goes on your computer, but I've read it won't work on Macintosh. You should still be able to drag and drop, as long as you can activate USB Mass Storage on your Garmin when it's connected to your computer's USB port.

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